Thursday, November 20, 2008

weigh it


isn't it important to know that a piece of paper weighs .15 ounce?

My new favorite gadget (I never tire of saying this) is my new scale, the KD-8000 from MyWeigh, which I bought here for $50. Thanks Kim for bringing it back from the US!

So, how do I love thee? Let me count the "weighs":

- Ounces are shown as a decimal, not a fraction. My old scale used fractions and only did increments of 1/8. So if I needed 1/3, I had to guess.

- It's super-sensitive to 1 gram. With my old scale, I had to periodically push down on it as I added small amounts of flour so it would register the small weight change.

- The auto-off is configurable. I can't tell you how many times my old scale turned off in the middle of me weighing something.

- The max weight is 17 pounds. My old scale's max was 5 pounds, which is ridiculous if my huge glass bowl already weighs 2 pounds.

- It has the option to show the weight in ounces, not pounds & ounces. This means if I need 19.5 ounces of flour, I don't have to mentally convert that to 1 pound 3.5 ounces. (Yes, I should just use grams but I haven't translated all my old American recipe books quite yet.)

- It even has the super fancy "baker's percentage" feature, which allows you to weigh the flour and then show all subsequent measurements as a percentage of the flour weight. I may never use this feature but I love that it's there.

pumpkin galette


this super flaky crust is my new best friend

I'm totally in love with this pumpkin galette. The pumpkin and caramelized onion filling was so tasty, but the real star is the amazingly flaky crust. It's so flaky, it's like a croissant. I'm excited to try this crust with my pies this Thanksgiving and see how it holds up to more liquidy fillings. I found the recipe on Smitten Kitchen, which has recipes for other galettes that I can't wait to try: wild mushroom and stilton galette and cabbage and mushroom galette.

I made a few substitutions. The original recipe calls for butternut squash, but I used Muscade de Provence, (Muskatkürbis) which is the most popular pumpkin here (note to americans: all winter squash are called "pumpkins" here instead of "squash," one linguistic change I wholeheartedly embrace). I learned in the LaughingLemon class I took a few weeks ago that fully brown Muscade are tastier than partially green ones. Last week at the Zurich Bürkliplatz market, all the Muscade were mostly green. But this weekend in London, I visited the amazing Borough Street Market and found a fantastic display full of only all-brown Muscat (shown below). It should have made me happy but I only got depressed because I don't live in London and can't visit that market every week.


Muscade de Provence in all its glory

Unless you're feeding an army, no one buys a whole Muscade - you get a monster slice like the one below. After cutting, the flavor starts to diminish. So avoid pre-cut slices, cook it asap, and don't scoop out the innards until you're ready to cook it.



To make the filling, you first dice up the pumpkin and roast it for 30 mins. Mine was almost mush after 30 mins. I thought perhaps I should cook it less so the pieces stayed distinct. Still not sure.



With my first galette, I piled the filling high in the middle and folded over lots of crust (shown below). The second time I spread the filling out, leaving only 1.5inches border and only folded over a small border. I prefered the second method.



This galette is so sweet and rich, it needs to be paired with something fresh and tangy, like this nüssli salad with raspberry vinaigrette.



Recipe: Pumpkin and Caramelized Onion Galette
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen - I'm not fussy about my pastry, but the original recipe is, asking you to freeze the flour and butter for an hour, etc. If you are anxious about pastry making, consult the original recipe.

For the pastry:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 TB (4 ounces, ) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1/4 cup (2 ounces) sour cream - I used saucenhalbrahm (like sour cream but not sour) by accident the first time and it was just as good as the second one with sour cream
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup ice water

For the filling:
1 small butternut squash (about one pound, 500 grams) - I used Muscat de Provence, with excellent results
2 TB olive oil
2 TB butter
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced in half-moons
1 tsp salt
Pinch of sugar
1/4 tsp cayenne, or to taste
3/4 cup fontina cheese (about 2 1/2 ounces), grated or cut into small bits - I had a hard time locating fontina (I have bought it before here, but it's not omnipresent) so I used raclette, which is a sister cheese to fontina
1.5 tsp chopped fresh sage leaves - I used 1/2 tsp dried sage with good results

1. Make pastry: In a bowl, combine the flour and salt. Cut up the butter into 1/2in chunks and cut into flour using pastry blender or two knives, until mixture resembles coarse meal. In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream, lemon juice and water and add this mixture to the flour mixture. With a fork, mix in liquid carefully until large lumps form. Do not overwork the dough. Place dough in plastic wrap and lightly and briefly knead with knuckles and until dough mostly sticks together, without lots of dry parts (like 30 seconds). Wrap tightly in the plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare squash: Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Peel squash, then halve and scoop out seeds. Cut into a 1/2-inch dice. Toss pieces with olive oil and a half-teaspoon of the salt and roast on foil lined sheet for 30 minutes or until pieces are tender, turning it midway if your oven bakes unevenly. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. Caramelize onions: While squash is roasting, melt butter in a heavy skillet and cook onion over low heat with the remaining half-teaspoon of salt and pinch of sugar, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden brown, about 20 minutes. Stir in cayenne.

4. Raise the oven temperature to 400F (205C). Mix squash, caramelized onions, cheese and herbs together in a bowl.

5. Assemble galette: On a floured work surface, roll the dough out into a 12-inch round. Transfer to an ungreased baking sheet. Spread squash, onions, cheese and herb mixture over the dough, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border. Fold the border over the squash, onion and cheese mixture, pleating the edge to make it fit. The center will be open.

6. Bake until golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, let stand for 5 minutes, then slide the galette onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve hot, warm or at room temperature. Serves 6.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

cran-walnut-banana: magical combo



When I see an unexpected food item in Zurich, I panic and buy it immediately without having a clue when or for what I'm going to use it. Fresh cranberries, along with canned pumpkin, usually make a short appearance here in the fancy groceries (like Jelmoli and Globus) around Thanksgiving. So I was surprised in October to see lots of fresh cranberries at the regular Coop grocery. I immediately grabbed a bag, worried that this was a fluke and I'd never see them again. I wasn't quite ready to make my traditional chutney for our T-day turkey, so I combed my cookbooks for a cranberry recipe. I chose this cranberry-walnut-banana quick bread from The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, which is definitely yum. I particularly love the contrast of textures and flavors. I knew for sure that it was yum when I husband ate a slice for breakfast without my prompting. He's not much into the baked goods and normally doesn't eat breakfast. So for him to break his routine, I know it's something special.


Rose recommends serving it with whipped cream cheese - I agree!



Recipe: Cranberry Walnut Banana Bread
Adapted from The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum

1 cup walnuts (4oz, 114g)
2 cups minus 1 TB all-purpose flour (9.5oz, 272g)
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
8 TB unsalted butter, softened (4oz, 113 g)
1 cup sugar (7oz, 200g)
2 large eggs, slightly beaten
1 very ripe large banana
1.5 TB sour cream - I was out and used yogurt, which was fine
1 tsp vanilla
2 cups fresh cranberries, cut in half (7oz, 200g) - it seems annoying to cut them all in half, but according to Rose, it prevents them from bursting and helps them absorb sugar.

1. Preheat oven to 325F (162C) and grease one loaf pan.

2. Toast the nuts on a baking sheet, about 7 mins (in oven that is preheating). Rub off the skins (skins are bitter) and chop coarsely.

3. In medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. In mixer bowl, cream butter and sugar, about 3 minutes till fluffy. Add eggs, banana, sour cream, and vanilla and beat about 1 minute until thoroughly blended. Add flour mixture and mix until just moistened, about 20 seconds. Add cranberries and walnuts and stir about 20 seconds until well combined.

4. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake 55 to 60 minutes until the bread is golden and top springs back when lightly pressed in the middle. Tent with foil during last 30 minutes to prevent overbrowning (I forgot to do this and my bread was fine).

5. Cool bread in pan about 10 minutes then remove from pan and cool on rack. Bread keeps about 4 days at room temp. Serve plain or toasted with whipped cream cheese.
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