Thursday, September 25, 2008

butter, cream, and caramel - oh my!


I could certainly improve on the presentation but it tasted good

I hosted book club last week and provided a little ice cream sundae bar. Here's the menu.



I made most everything from scratch but only one ice cream, Butter Pecan, because I don't have the fancy self-freezing ice cream maker that lets you keep making batch after batch. Some of my book club ladies have requested recipes, so I'm including some of them below. (You'll have to ask Jenna for her hot fudge recipe - thanks Jenna!)

Salted Butter Caramel Sauce
This was the crowd favorite. It tastes like melted toffee - yum yum. This I would eat this sauce on anything (popcorn comes to mind) or simply drink it. Adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz

6 TB (85g) unsalted butter
3/4 cup (150g) sugar
1 cup (250ml) heavy cream
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 tsp coarse salt, preferably fleur de sel, which has a more delicate texture than kosher salt

In a small saucepan, warm the cream over medium heat (you don't want to pour cold cream into the caramel or the mixture will clump into hard chunks that you'll have to melt down again - I learned the hard way).

Meanwhile, melt the butter over medium heat in a large, deep, heavy-duty saucepan. Stir in the sugar and cook, stirring frequently, until the sugar is a deep golden brown and starts to smoke. Watch carefully that the butter doesn't burn (I burned my first batch, better to warm it slowly at a lower heat than fast at a higher heat). Remove from heat and slowly pour the hot cream in a small, steady stream while constantly whisking to prevent clumping. If any lumps of caramel form, whisk the sauce gently over low heat until they're dissolved. Stir in the salt. Serve warm.

This sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Rewarm gently in microwave or by stirring in saucepan over very low heat.

Peach Melba Sauce
I simply served a raspberry and peach sauce side by side, which the guest could combine over the ice cream.

12 oz frozen raspberries, thawed
1/2 cup sugar
1 TB lemon juice

Place fruit and sugar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and cook sugar dissolves and fruit soften. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Serve warm.

3-4 peaches, peeled, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
about 3 TB sugar
about 1 tsp lemon juice

Same instructions as above. Just taste the fruit mixture and add sugar to taste. Serve warm.

Gingerbread Caramel Sauce
This was supposed to be butterscotch sauce, but I accidently used regular sugar instead of brown sugar. So I added a couple tablespoons of molasses, resulting in a very dark, strong sauce, very similar to the gingerbread caramels I made last winter. Adapted from the Cook's Illustrated butterscotch sauce.

1 cup granulated sugar
2 TB molasses (or less if you want a less strong molasses flavor
1/4 cup corn syrup
3 TB unsalted butter
pinch salt
1/2 cup heavy cream, room temperature or warmer
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Combine sugar, molasses, corn syrup, butter and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often until the sugar melts. Reduce heat to low and simmer without stirring until syrup reaches 280F on candy thermometer, about 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and slowly stir in cream until sauce is smooth. Stir in vanilla. The sauce thickens as it cools. Serve warm. You can store in the fridge for several weeks.

Butter Pecan Ice Cream
Wow, I love this ice cream. It's so much more buttery than the commercial stuff. Recipe adapted from Cook's Illustrated.

2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
2 TB unsalted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
4 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 cup pecans, chopped and toasted (place chopped nuts in pan over medium heat, shaking occasionally to turn nuts, until fragrant, about 5 mins)

Combine milk, cream, brown sugar, and butter in saucepan over medium heat. Bring mixture to 175F, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, whisk granulated sugar and egg yolks until it turns pale yellow and thickens so it falls in ribbons, about 2 mins with an electric whisk. When milk mixture is ready, remove about 1/2 cup of the mixture and very slowly whisk into the egg mixture (you are slowly bringing the eggs to a higher temperature without cooking them). Repeat a couple times, then slowly whisk the egg mixture into the saucepan. Reduce heat to low and slowly bring the mixture to 180F (don't cook those eggs!), stirring constantly. The custard should be thick, but not curdled or boiled.

Remove from heat, stir in vanilla. Pour through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl over ice and stir to bring temperature down (I usually skip this step and simply put the mixture in the fridge for a few hours or overnight). Cover bowl and chill until mixture reaches 40F. Pour into ice cream machine and churn until frozen. At the end of churning, add the nuts and churn 30 seconds to incorporate. Transfer mixture to storage container and freeze until firm. Ice cream will keep up to 2 days but is best on day one.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Zurich is expensive, what else is new

In any given conversation, I'm likely to discuss at least one, if not all, of the following Zurich topics: the depressing weather, the road construction and resulting traffic, and the high prices (gas is $6.80/gallon here), particularly for food. I'd like to document some of these for my US readers who think prices are high there. You ain't seen nothing.

Below are some comparisons of US and Swiss food prices. I actually started weeping as I made this chart. I knew it was expensive here but when you see it in print, it's shocking. I used normal grocery store products (Safeway vs Migros), not fancy gourmet organic stuff. I also didn't take into account the additional savings available by shopping in bulk at Costco, etc.

Assume $1 = 1 swiss franc. When I moved here three years ago, it was $.78 = 1sfr. The franc is worth more but prices haven't dropped here. So although prices are relatively stable, everything seems even more expensive compared to the US. I've stated prices in normal US quantities, like gallons and pounds, not liters and kilos.

ProductUS priceZurich price% higher
Milk$5.80/galFr. 6.25/gal8%
Ground beef$3.50/lbFr. 7.87/lb124%
Beef Chuck Roast$2.49/lbFr. 14.37/lb422%
Beef Filet Mignon$16.99/lbFr. 38.00/lb124%
Beef Sirloin$6.19/lbFr. 32.40/lb423%
Pork Shoulder$2.49/lbFr. 13.00/lb422%
Lamb stew meat$5.99/lbFr. 22.00/lb267%
Whole chicken$1.69/lbFr. 4.41/lb160%
Boneless chicken breast$3.99/lbFr. 14.00/lb250%
Bacon$5.99/lbFr. 9.72/lb62%
Butter$3.99/lbFr. 6.75/lb70%
Ricotta$3.50/lbFr. 5.76/lb65%
Sweatshop eggs$.25/pieceFr. .40/piece60%
Free range eggs$.32/pieceFr. .80/piece150%

Some things are less expensive. Vanilla beans are dirt cheap, only 2.40sfr for 3 beans. In the US, I'd pay $11 for 2 beans. A small packet of saffron (.035oz) costs $16.59, while in Zurich, the same packet would cost about Fr. 5.20.

How do these high prices affect my shopping? When I first moved here, I was paralyzed by sticker shock and got really upset every time I shopped. But with a double-punch combo of simply ignoring the prices and slowly changed our eating habits, we survive. I didn't eat much meat in the US, but here, I've dramatically reduced our family's intake. In stews, chilis, spaghetti sauce, etc., I usually use about half the meat called for in a recipe (for stew, I use 1.5 pounds instead of 3) and still cringe at the price. I usually add more veggies and/or beans to compensate. I'm scared what might happen if I move back to the US. I might eat myself into oblivion just to take advantage of the low prices.

Monday, September 08, 2008

American food products at gas stations and other unexpected places

In addition to Jelmoli and Globus, there are a few unexpected places to find American and English food products:

- Gas stations often carry different products than the Migros/Coop cartel. On the Run - Esso gas station in Kusnacht, Seestrasse 139 had on my last visit: Betty Crocker cake mix, A1 Steak Sauce, Bulls Eye BBQ Sauce, Arm & Hammer baking soda, etc.

- Cindy's Diner in Wädenswil (south of Zurich, connected to the gas station on the freeway) has, among other things, American cake mix, frosting, and Mountain Dew.

- Orell Füssli English Bookshop (Bahnhofstrasse 70, Zurich) - They have a random assortment of American and English products, like cake mix and tea cookies, on the second floor in the center. They used to also have these products the basement, so check both places.

- Despite the title, the "Brown Sugar" store in Adliswil does not carry brown sugar, it's just a typical low-end Swiss sandwich place. Don't waste your time.

You can also check these online stores:
- American Food Avenue
- Taste of America (they have brown sugar)
- American Market
- Premiere Videothek London Shop
- XpatXchange list of other online shops

I also found this helpful list of where to get certain American items in Zurich.

Thursday, September 04, 2008

rant: I hate European kitchen machines


will Vorwerk Thermomix solve all my problems?

Yea, I said it - I hate European kitchen machines and here's why:

a) I couldn't bring my trusty KitchenAid stand mixer and Cuisinart food processor here because of the 220V issue.

b) I couldn't rebuy the Cuisinart food processor because they don't sell it Europe. The basic KitchenAid stand mixer sells for 700sfr (vs $150 in the US) - luckily I found one for 350sfr. I would have preferred the KitchenAid professional, but it isn't sold in Europe. In fact, most of the models/brands highly rated by Cook's Illustrated, my cooking bible, are unavailable in Europe. So when shopping, I simply have to guess by the box marketing material and...

c) I hate my Euro food processor and blender! I used to make everything in my Cuisinart food processor: pie dough, cookie crumbs, bread crumbs, chopped nuts, hummus. My machine here does a terrible job, always leaving big chunks whirling around aimlessly no matter how much manual scraping and stirring I do. My hummus and peanut butter are terribly grainy. With any thick mixture, like pesto or chile paste, it only combines the stuff near the blade, pushing most of the mixture up the sides. After 5 mins blending butternut squash soup last night, my blender motor started emitting a strange smell and made sad noises. Aaaaargh!

But the clouds have parted and I have seen the light: the Vorwerk Thermomix TM31. Not only is it highly praised by Cook's Illustrated, it's a native Euro product. So for a cool 1000sfr or so, cuilinary heaven can be mine. I'm going to spend all my free time on eBay trying to find a bargain. Wish me luck.
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